Pigeons and doves belong to a large and successful family of 289 species, ranging in size from the Diamond Dove which is approximately 12cm long, to the Crowned Pigeon which is as big as a female turkey, and in colour from the many-coloured Fruit Dove to the soft grey Wood pigeon. Our familiar feral pigeon of the streets has been known by man for 6000 years. They were sculpted on Egyptian tombs, carried messages for King Solomon, helped Julius Caesar conquer Gaul and won many medals for bravery in both world wars. Several poets including Shakespeare have written about the qualities of pigeons. To many they are a symbol of Peace and Love. Pigeons are gentle, beautiful birds who need and deserve all our kindness and respect. They are truly amazing birds, for they can;

• live everywhere except Antarctica

• suck water the way we do

• navigate up to 1000 miles

• sense the Earth•s magnetic field

• fly as fast as 75 miles per hour

• hear ultra-sound

• see colours including ultra-violet

• feed their babies •milk• even if they are male

These adaptable and intelligent birds (along with doves) have one common ancestor, the Rock Dove (Columba Livia).Their normal life span is 5-7 years though they can go upto 15 years. The mother has an incubation period of 17-19 days and the young leave the nest in 40- 45 days.The bird is about 83 cm in length and weighs between 280 and 560 g - average about 350 g. Its plumage can vary considerably, from a close resemblance to that of the original rock dove (with blue-grey plumage, double black wing bars and a white rump) through various •blues•, •reds• and chequered types, to almost pure black. There are no visible differences between the sexes. Male pigeons are usually slightly bigger in size and have bigger beaks and wattles (white part of the beak). They also have a much bolder, larger head than the females. Sexing pigeons is hard and can only be achieved through practice and comparison. Females are smaller and have flatter heads too and are often seen on the nest more than the males.

Feral pigeons build their nests in or on buildings and other structures, where they are usually found on ledges or in hollows - often under eaves or on girders. Grass, twigs, feathers or any scraps, such as plastic and wire, may be used in the construction of nests, which are frequently rather flimsily built but, when used for successive broods, may become well-defined structures.

Pigeons in the wild breed all the year round but the peak is from around March to September if the weather is warm. They chase each other for 10 days and then the female lays 2 eggs in the nest, one day apart. They then sit on these for 18 days and they hatch into two squeakers (babies) which are covered in yellow down hair. They rear their young until about 4 weeks old and then they leave the nest and go wild themselves.

Feral pigeons normally feed in flocks and for most of the year rely mainly on spillage at food premises or on scraps, including bread, cake grain and •bird-seed•, given by the public. In some localities birds may fly to nearby arable farmland during spring and autumn to feed on sowings and stubbles.

Loading and unloading of grain, at places such as docks and mills, provides a source of food from the abundant spillage that normally occurs.

Pigeons lay two white eggs on any available ledge. In just under three weeks the babies hatch and are fed on special pigeon•s milk which is a curd-like substance produced in the crops of both parents. Gradually the familiar grey feathers replace the yellow down that covered the newborn pigeon (or squab). They become independent at about 2 months old. Any baby pigeon found on the ground that appears small, still has yellow tufts visible or who squeaks for food or in fear, is in great danger from cats or traffic etc. PLEASE PICK IT UP as it is almost impossible to return it to its nest. You may find pigeons breeding on your balcony, workplace or roof space or on top of the air conditioners/coolers.Leave them alone and at some distance away, without making eye contact, leave bowls of water and food.

Feeding

The pigeon is herbivorous. As seedeaters, these birds must obtain all their essential nutrients from ripe and unripe seeds, cereals, and legumes.

Carbohydrates and Fats

In relation to their volume, pigeons have a large surface area. To maintain their high body temperature of 107.2• F (41.8• C), they require an enormous amount of energy produced from carbohydrates and fats. Fats produce 2 • times as much energy as carbohydrates but those not burned up by activity will be deposited in the pigeon•s muscles and body organs, making it obese and lethargic. A low fat diet is therefore recommended.

Proteins

Proteins are necessary in the diet for the growth and repair of cell tissues and in the production of enzymes to aid in the digestive system. A large proportion of proteins are obtained from legumes (about 16-23%), and also in cereals (around 11%). However, the amino acid compositions are different in the various legumes and cereals, so a mixture must be provided in order to ensure a balanced diet. The plumage is also composed mainly from proteins and a good supply of these nutrients is necessary before and during the onset of winter.The pigeon•s •milk•, which is produced from the crop lining, must be as rich in protein as possible. Pigeons that do not receive a varied supply of amino acids will not be able to provide an adequate diet to their young through crop milk.

Minerals

Mineral salts such as calcium and phosphorous play an important role in the forming and maintenance of bones. These minerals are not contained in sufficient quantities in the normal diet, so must be given in the form of grit. Water

Water is necessary to lubricate and soften the food, to regulate body temperature, and to serve as a transport system for digested food. Pigeons should have free access to fresh, clean water at all times.

Food must not smell musty, or show a trace of mould. Grain, seed, and legumes should have moisture content not greater than 17%. If higher than this the nutritional quality, including the vitamin content, will be diminished. Damp grain can cause digestive problems. Under normal conditions the moisture content is well under 17%. All ingredients must be kept dry and protected from rodents.

Cereals

Cereals are excellent food for pigeons. Grains have a high starch content (40-75%) and are easily digested and provide a good supplement to the legumes.

Barley

Barley is an excellent food with a starch content of 62.5%, a protein content of 7.5%, and a low fat content of 1.2%. The fibre (roughage) content is 1.3%. It has vitamin B, vitamin D and mineral content.

Maize(Corn)

Maize has the lowest protein content of the cereals (7.1%), but a high starch content (65.7%), and a fibre content of 1.3%. It has the highest fat content of grains of grains or legumes (4%). Maize is avidly consumed by pigeons and, because of its high fat content; it should be given sparingly (maximum 20% of the diet). In intense cold weather it can be increased to 30% so that the pigeons can compensate for heat loss.

Wheat

Wheat is an excellent food for pigeons. Its digestible protein contents are somewhat higher than that of other grains: 9.7%; the starch content is 63.5%; fat content, 1.2%; the raw fibre content is low at 0.9%. Wheat should form a maximum of 20% of the diet. Too much wheat can cause digestive problems.

Oats (Dalia)

Oats stimulate the nervous system and are particularly useful in preparing for the breeding season.

The drawbacks of oats are a high fat content (4%) and a higher proportion of fibre than other grains (2.6%; double that of barley). Dehusked oats, with no loss of quality, are more acceptable to the birds. Because of the high fat content, oats should not be more than 5% of the diet. The protein content is 9.3% and the starch content 44.8%.

Paddy (brown rice)

Paddy is a valuable food because of its high vitamin B content. The vitamin is contained in the husk and in the germ, and is more or less lost in dehusked rice. Brown rice has a fairly high fibre content. Its protein, starch and fat content are lower than in other grains but this is compensated for by the vitamin B content. An adequate amount of brown rice is 2-3% of the food mixture.

Sorghum (jowar,jai)

Sorghum is a small grain that comes in various sizes and colours, from white to reddish brown. White sorghum is the largest and is probably the most nutritious. It is easily digested and has high starch content. The protein content is low. It is not especially valuable as a pigeon food, but 2-3% can be added to give the diet more variety.

Legumes

Legumes, or pulses, are an important part of a pigeon•s diet. They have a greater percentage of protein and minerals than grains and many seeds, and have low fibre content. They are necessary to provide a full range of amino acids.

Pigeon peas (tuvar/arhar)

Pigeon peas are the best-known legumes used in the pigeon•s food mixture. They contain a high proportion of digestible protein (20%). The calcium and phosphorous content is fairly high at 0.14% and 0.45% respectively. 5- 10% of pigeon peas can be included in the diet.

Green peas

Green peas are the most suitable protein rich legumes for our pigeons. The protein content, at 19.4%, is lower than that of pigeon peas, but green peas are very nutritious and more easily digested. In addition, the various vitamins are better represented than in other legumes. Green peas have a good vitamin B content, and contain vitamin E and carotene. Green peas should form 50% of the leguminous part of the diet.

Seeds

Linseed (til)

Linseed has about the same protein content as green peas but a much higher fat content (about 35%). Linseed may be given only in very small quantities. It helps the growth of young birds. Moreover, linseed gives the pigeon smooth and silky plumage.

Hemp ( bhang )

The pigeons eagerly consume hemp. It is high in fat and protein and stimulates the sex drive. Feed it only in small quantities.

Safflower seed ( kusumbha, karadi, kardai )

Safflower seed is high in protein but also has a very high fat content. Therefore 1-2% in the food mixture is adequate.

Weed seeds and chaff (Chokar)

Weed seeds, of good quality, are an excellent tonic for pigeons. About one thimbleful per bird per day can be mixed with a minute quantity of linseed and hemp. This will gives the birds a supplement of vitamins and minerals that are scarce in the larger grains and legumes.

They should be given in small quantities as many of these seeds have a high fat content, too much of which will make pigeons obese. Some varieties of weed seed also have high fat content.

Vitamin supplements

Vitamin deficiencies result in impaired health of the birds. Such deficiencies can show in various ways, including weak muscles, swollen eyelids, thin-shelled eggs, etc

There are a few cautions to note: first, it may be difficult or impossible to distinguish the pigeons that require extra supplements from the healthy ones; secondly, by giving synthetic vitamins, we discourage the pigeons from producing their own from their normal foods. In such cases, the synthetic vitamins are used in the body and the natural ones are passed out with the body wastes. There are occasions when synthetic vitamin preparations are useful for all the pigeons: for example in the winter, when they are receiving too little sunlight (ultraviolet rays from sunlight are absorbed through the pigeon•s skin and help it to produce vitamin D, essential for healthy bones). A small amount of cod liver oil (enough to barely show on the food seeds) can be added to the food, not more than twice a week. Be sure that the cod-liver oil is fresh; if rancid, it will destroy the vitamin E. .

Feeding strategies

An average sized pigeon weighs about 14 ounces (400 gm). On a daily basis, a pigeon requires 1/10 to 1/12 of its body weight in food; that is 1 • ounces (30-40gm) per day. During the rearing of the young the amount can double and during the rest period, it may reduce to 1 ounce (25-30gm). The 1 • ounces (30-40gm) of food is best given in two parts, mornings and evenings.

Feeding in the rest period

During the winter rest period, no eggs are usually laid, no young are reared, and molting is over. Food required will be only for the maintenance of the pigeon•s body. However, on colder days and nights, the energy requirement will be somewhat greater.

A protein content of 7-8% is adequate. Various cereals contain this amount, but, as cereal proteins are not adequate in themselves, legumes are added to give the necessary variety of amino acids.

Feeding before and during the breeding season

Two weeks before the breeding period starts, the diet must contain more protein. The amount of barley is gradually reduced and the amount of legume increased, so that the 7-8% protein content of the rest period reaches 12-13%, with a littile variety. The mixture should be given throughout the growth and rearing of the young.

After the eggs have been laid, the protein percentage in the diet can be slightly lowered. Many protein foods are heavy and the digestive system, especially the liver, has to work hard. During the first ten days of brooding, the legume content of the diet can be reduced to 20% and the barley increased to 30%. After these ten days, increase the legumes again to 40% and reduce the barley to 10% of the mixture. During the rearing of the young, feed liberally twice a day, so that food is always available for the adults after feeding the young. Weaned youngsters require the same mixture as that on which they are reared.

Molting period

Pigeons molt the whole year round; in the rest period they shed some down feathers, but in March/April the first flight feathers are molted. The molt continues slowly until the main molting period, which usually starts mid-July to the beginning of August. During the molting period a lower percentage of protein than in the breeding period should be given. A protein content of 10-11% in the diet will be adequate, but through as varied a diet mixture as possible, in order to supply a full quota of amino acids.

Oilseeds such as sunflower, hemp, linseed, cabbage seed, and rape (Rai), fed in small quantities during the molting period, will give an improved bloom to the new plumage.

In all of these periods, you must not forget to supply the pigeons with a good, varied grit mixture, greens, and, for birds that are not free-flying, fresh, overturned grass sod every week. Do not leave out barley and do not feed too much!

Remember that pigeons drink immediately after eating, to help them digest their food. Every time you feed the pigeons, inspect the water container and be sure it is filled with fresh water, which should be warmed in frosty weather.

When the young are being reared, water is essential for both young and adults. If the parent birds are unable to supply the young with adequately softened food, the chicks will soon die. Pigeons, unlike most other birds, suck up water and hold their beaks in it the whole time they are drinking.

Like most birds, pigeons love to bathe, especially in the molting period. Young pigeons like to bathe throughout the year. Bath water also helps maintain humidity during brooding; otherwise the embryos can die in the shell or the shells may become too hard for the young to break out of.

TREATING A SICK PIGEON

The following is intended as assistance towards problem recognition through elimination of possibilities until arriving at the most probable cause of illness and diagnosis - a •Layman•s• directory!

Many pigeon ailments have similar symptoms and yet are completely different in their nature and severity. Most common pigeon ailments are equilibrium unbalance problems; that is to say that they are stress related. The bacteria live permanently in balance within the body until something reduces the individuals vitality and the natural balance becomes upset.

A sick pigeon will fluff out it•s feathers as if it is cold. The patient hides perhaps under a park bench or in a doorway, and is seen on the ground at dusk when its fellows have flown up high to roost. The droppings may appear green and watery, and signs of bullying injuries by other birds may be visible around the head. An injured pigeon may be in shock, limping badly, drooping a wing or bleeding.

Pigeons suffer from a variety of ailments peculiar to themselves, the most common being the Paramyxo virus and throat canker. The virus causes birds to appear fluffed up, unbalanced or dizzy. They may walk in circles, throw seeds in the air when eating, hang their heads or have fits. No veterinary treatment is available as far as we know but the patient almost always recovers after a lengthy period of rest and care. However, he or she must be kept separate from other birds for at least 6 weeks. Canker or Trichomoniasis seems most common in adult collared doves and young feral pigeons aged between 2 and 5 weeks. It is detected by a swollen throat, wet or bad smelling discharge from the beak and unwillingness to fly. This complaint is fatal if not treated with a drug such as metronidazole bought from a vet. Crop-feeding may be necessary while healing is underway. Please do not attempt to scrape away the white growths unless they are severely restricting breathing, as this may damage the lining of the throat. Keep the patient away from other birds. As with dealing with any animal, please observe common-sense hygiene.

Catching the Pigeon

Pigeons are easier to catch than most birds because they are semi-tame. The flock to which the patient belongs can be attracted with corn or unsalted peanuts. A soft cloth, coat or towel is often helpful. Throw it over the bird from behind whilst its attention is distracted. The first attempt is the most important since pigeons (being preyed on in the wild) quickly become wary of attention.

Pigeons very rarely bite. Their beaks cannot cause injury. Line a cardboard box with something soft and make a few airholes in it. Pigeons will not die of fright through such confinement. On the contrary, a warm dark environment is vital to overcome shock. One may be apprehensive of causing further pain or stress by a clumsy

catch, but if you leave the pigeon where it is, a cat with no such qualms will almost certainly find it.

Causes of General injury/ill health

• Fall from the nest especially nestlings

• Door closing accident

• Kite flying

• Cat/ dog attacks

• Hit by a vehicle

• Due to less food (no stamina) they fall straight to the ground

• Catapults (slingshots)

• Bullets

• Other birds

• Cold weather

• No water

• Bad or inappropriate food

Abdominal Trouble

These include diarrhoea, dropsy, paratyphoid, rupture or tumour which are detailed below. Most pigeons will display abdominal problems at some time or another and this does not necessarily signify disease. The most common cause of loose droppings are:

• sudden change in air temperature from warm to cold; pigeons fed regulated diets may use up all calorific energy to maintain body heat. This leads to mild hunger and the passing of water. In both cases the balance is soon restored with feeding.

• Change of feed or feeding regularity may also result in the passing of wet or loose faeces until the body adjusts.

• Excessive use of vitamins - the metabolism will only absorb and use a minute amount required, the remainder (excess) will be expelled. Very often this expulsion is accompanied by thirst with loose or wet faeces and may very often negate any benefit derived from the vitamin addition to diet.

• Toxic or deleterious substances

-when the pigeon ingests anything of this nature it will immediately attempt to flush the system.

Before panic measures are taken and medicines resorted to check all possibilities and probabilities! The simplest course of action to effect a cure is to isolate the bird, do not feed for 24 hrs, remove water immediately after the bird has taken a drink (twice daily). On the second day remove the water immediately after feeding, feed lightly with bulk protein and fibre (peas/beans) avoid small grain or seeds. Gradually increase the feed from the third day onwards and replace the drinker containing a

proprietary enteric assisting agent e.g. Entrodex. on days 5-6-7 allow a course of multivitamins. Alternatively bicarbonate of soda is an excellent calmative agent (1 tablespoon - 4 pts. water) during days 1-3. This is also recommended for use throughout regular weekly management on one early day per week (Sunday or Monday).

The faeces from hunger-exertion-change of diet-toxins may be recognized from the following list:

• yellow and frothy;

• clear watery, water with black spaghetti like pieces;

• bright green fluid;

• soft consistency of various colours (the colour may be dictated by diet or digestion of bird and vary accordingly from bird to bird);

• little or no odour detectable.

Adenovirus

This is commanly known as the •young bird vomiting syndrome•. Symptoms include retention of undigested food, full crop, thirst, weight loss and foul smelling loose faeces. It rarely affects the entire flock and fatality rate is low; the disease may disappear almost as quickly as it arrived in some birds or continue its infectious course for several days. Generally Adenovirus is an ailment in young birds and birds who have recovered become immune although possibly remain carriers. Being a virus, antibiotics cannot cure but may be used to prevent the escalation of secondary infections from stress imbalance. The most common allied secondary infection being of respiratory nature and E.Coli. The treatment for nursing to a speedy recovery is covered in the section on Toxin ingestion. The period of controlled water supply should be extended to three days, and feeding should be restricted to beans/peas approx. 1 oz once per day. The antibiotic administered to best effect is BAYTRIL. When using antibiotics you are advised to remove all grits and minerals, do not feed any yeast containing supplements, do not use any other additives to drinking water until the course of treatment is completed.

Allergy

Pigeons in some cases are allergic to the loft environment or other inmates. Once isolated to a solitary cell cure is affected almost immediately.

Anaemia

This is weakness from poor blood. Symptoms include pale eyes, lethargy, pallid throat, will not exercise keenly. Causes can be:

• none-assimilation of vitamins from natural diet,

• secondary reaction to many illnesses through passing of excess body fluids;

• old age;

• deficient diet;

• poor rearing in young birds,

• general debilitation from poor husbandry.

The pigeons are in need of a tonic i.e. B complex vitamins, Brewers Yeast, Sulphate of Iron. Give B complex liquid like Bivinal-5 drops in the morning and 5 drops in the evening for a week or Brotone(B Complex liquid).

Apoplexy

Symptoms - shaking, staggering, falling over, and misjudging distance, collapse. Usually found only in overheated and crowded lofts during very hot weather. Overcrowding and excessive use of heating seeds or stimulants may be other causes. This is mainly a hot weather ailment when the brain is affected by increased blood flow and rupturing of minute blood vessels causing haemorrhage. This is easily cured or rectified: increase ventilation to cool air, darken loft with sunshade. Most cases demonstrate immediate recovery; serious cases may be taken to a vet for bleeding from a wing vein.

Aspergillosis

Often mistaken for canker or tuberculosis. The symptoms are a hard growth or lump in the windpipe, gasping for breath, sneezing, coughing, nasal and throat discharges, diarrhoea, swollen joints or lameness. Throat canker shows up as a soft easily removable cheesy growth; Aspergillosis is hard and embedded into tissue and cannot be removed without excessive bleeding or pain to the bird. It also attacks the liver and spleen where it may be revealed as white growths in autopsy. The cause is fungus and mould spores usually floating within the immediate environment of the loft. These proliferate from damp deep litter straw or hay which lay dormant until temperature increases and are only one of many fungal entities lurking therein to cause a variety of illnesses. Another cause is mouldy feed stuff i.e. blackened beans/peas, sour wheat/barley, powdery maize (inspect for blue/grey mouldy powder and smell for sourness). Fumigate the loft with a mould destroying agent, sterilise all drinkers, grit boxes, corn bins etc. Paint a solution of aqueous iodine, glycerine and honey onto the affected throat area with an artist brush. This solution must also be added to the drinking water for both patient and uninfected birds. There is no 100% cure and vital organ damage will remain permanent.

Bone Troubles

These include bent keel, rickets, off legs syndrome. Bent keels in squeakers are usually caused by pressure upon the soft cartilaginous type bone before hardening and not always through lack of calcium as it is sometimes thought. This can be avoided by checking nesting materials for depth and comfort as the full weight of the squab is borne upon its keel. Always wean for the first few days into deep dry straw and avoid perching opportunities upon hard edges. Rickets are caused by lack of sufficient calcium and trace elements. Any loft that ensures adequate supply of fresh grits and minerals daily in most cases should not have any cases of rickets. Some birds are unable to assimilate these into the metabolism from feed or supplements and draw their requirement from their own bones. If bone weakness persists after supplementation then it must be deemed to be an undesirable fault.

The Off Legs Syndrome is caused by a variety of factors.

• insufficient calcium and trace elements in diet, laying hens draw these from their bones to provide shell to eggs: ensure adequate supply in feed content.

• Excess weight causing pressure to nerve endings : reduce feed slightly but maintain quality.

• Lack of iron causing anaemia: Bivinal liquid 5 drops in the morning and 5 in the evening for a week or B. Complex (no more than twice weekly).

Do not give Brewers Yeast to parents rearing young due to possible yeast/fungus problems. Although Brewers Yeast is excellent for supplying B Complex vitamins there are times when it must not be used i.e. during rearing, whilst administering antibiotic treatments or nursing pigeons with fungal afflictions.

Canker (Trichomoniasis)

Pigeons have this disease permanently but will keep equilibrium until severely stressed. Canker is due to a parasitic organism called Trichomonas colombi and three forms are recognised affecting the pharynx, navel and internal organs respectively. The majority of adult pigeons are symptomless carriers of the organism but clinical cases may occur if the bird is under stress and in young pigeons the disease may be severe and even fatal. The disease is spread from adults to squabs in the crop milk and between pigeons through drinking water.

Pharyngeal Form

Cheesy yellow deposits are seen on the membranes of the pharynx at the back of the mouth. The deposits can affect food intake and also breathing. Severely affected birds are depressed, food intake is reduced and they become emaciated. Affected birds may have diarrhoea. Water intake may increase. In advanced stages a stringy mucous or putrid odour can be detected in the mouth. Throat Canker which forms a soft cheesy growth may be easily removed with a cotton bud dipped in aqueous iodine and glycerine, then treated with a standard veterinary cure.

Navel Form

This form occurs in young birds that are affected in the nest box from affected crop milk dripping onto the nest box floor. A typical cheesy yellow deposit is present under the skin at the navel and it may spread from here to the internal organs.

Internal Form

The internally affected organs include liver, crop and lung in which the cheesy yellow deposits may be found. The clinical signs of the internal form vary depending upon the organ involved but usually diarrhoea and emaciation are a feature of this condition.

All infected birds should be isolated as it is readily spread to any bird in low condition via the feed or drinkers. Canker does not require routine treatment but, may be monitored by regular clinical inspection of faeces and treated only as required. Canker equilibrium imbalance is often a secondary infection to a more serious disease. Therefore it does not make sense to attempt to completely eradicate this protozoan with routine treatment but only maintain a natural equilibrium within the immune system. Only treat as a cure for badly infected birds (imbalances) It can be cured within 3 - 5 days plus for 3 - 5 days convalescence. Dimetridazole is very effective against Trichomonas. All susceptible and in contact birds would be treated for a period of seven days. In some birds a broad-spectrum antibiotic or multi vitamin may be recommended. Flagyl is another antibiotic that is used as an anti-canker drug. Carnidazole is the generic name for all anti canker drugs • 1 10mg tablet is given for an adult pigeon and half ( 5 mg) is given for a newly weaned pigeon. This is a single oral dose.

Diagnosis has to be `based on the clinical signs in the living birds. Samples of crop smears are positive in the majority of adult birds and diagnosis is dependent on the number of organisms present. Post mortem examination of cadavers will give a positive diagnosis of the internal form. The disease needs to be distinguished from Pox, Tuberculosis, Aspergillosis and Salmonellosis.

Catarrh (Coryza •• common cold•- Mycoplasmosis see ornithosis & psittacosis)

Symptoms - clear watery discharge from eyes and nostrils, throat and wheezing or rattling sounds when breathing. This is yet another equilibrium disorder; pigeons live permanently with the causative agent and there is nor never will be a total cure. However it may be treated with antibiotics when it appears in a severe form. Broad-spectrum antibiotics used are Oxytetracycline liquid 5 drops of which should be given in the morning and 5 drops in the evening for at least 3 days or Enrox Oral solution with the same dosage. It may be cured by injectable Oxytetracycline into the subcutaneous tissue of the neck or into the breast muscle. One shot only is required to effect cure together with aviary convalescence. Convalescent birds should receive honey and garlic plus additional vitamin C in drinking water and probiotics to speed recovery

The most common afflictions to cause problems are:

One Eyed Cold

This takes several forms; some innocuous and some pernicious being the symptom of a more serious disease. One eyed cold is identified by clear water and air bubbles in one eye only, accompanied by slight swelling and reddening of eyelid and cere. Most commonly noticed is a watery or mucousy discharge in only one eye. But occasionally both eyes will have a watery appearance. Sometimes one eye can become completely shut depending upon the degree of infection. Should these symptoms develop to dark reddening and hard mucous deposits plus nasal discharge and severe breathing problems then the bird has a more serious disease. One eyed cold in young birds often occurs with the peak moulting time coinciding with atmospheric (temperature) wide variation (hot days-cold nights). Generally speaking this is easily rectified by greater ventilation or isolation to an aviary and increasing the Vitamin C supplement. Left to take its course the patient recovers in 4 - 7 days and gentle swabbing of the eye to remove dried particles certainly helps. One-eyed colds are also associated with a peck in the eye or some other type of physical injury affecting the eye. They are also often confused with the onset of mycoplasmosis.

Dry Cold

Dry cold is rather like hay fever in humans. Symptoms are sneezing, breathing difficulty, etc., and yet perfectly healthy in all other respects. The cause is most probably lack of humidity and air circulation during dry spells or lack of air circulation within an excessively closed loft environment coupled with overcrowding. To detect a dry cold - first gently press upon each side of the wattles with finger and thumb; the bird will sneeze. Inspect under the wattle and one will observe a blunt needle like appendage. This is the incumbent valve and serves the function similar to hair in the human nostril i.e. it prevents dust etc. from entering and blocking the airway.

In an unaffected bird this should appear slightly moist (not wet) and clear, being a healthy pink. The affected bird will be different; when applying slight pressure to the wattles, instead of sneezing, the pigeon will awkwardly open its beak and attempt to shake its head. The incumbent valve will appear dry and powdery with slight deposits of dust and mucous. The pigeon will only breathe through its beak and any attempt to close the slight gap will meet with resistance. The inside of the wattle must be gently cleaned with a slightly moistened feather taking care to remove any deposits. Remove all dust from the loft and increase humidity (put in an extra drinker). Most importantly do not overcrowd and keep down the dust as much as possible. This is the most common respiratory problem and antibiotics are not required nor will they cure.

Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis, an intestinal disease, is also caused by a protozoan parasite, usually Eimeria labbeana or E.columbarum. The protozoan infects the cells in the intestinal walls in large numbers, multiply there and eventually destroys the individual cells. Each time a cell is destroyed, protozoa are released into the intestine, infect the semi-digested food, and attack new cells. One form of the parasite is passed out in taeces and is called an oocyst.

The seriousness of the infection will depend on the numbers of protozoa. Seriously infected pigeons rapidly lose weight, and their droppings are watery. No blood appears in the pigeon•s droppings.

The oocysts released in the droppings can only develop further if ingested by another pigeon, but only •ripe• oocysts will develop. The ripening takes place best in a damp and warm environment. Pigeons can be infected only by ripe oocysts of pigeon coccidia, and not those of other animals.

In order to prevent this disease, you must keep the cote scrupulously clean and dry and protect it from infected birds. Add Amprolium pro salt 5gms in one litre of drinking water for 5 days and then give a gap of 3-4 days after which give half the dose in 1litre water for another 5 days.

A fecal examination one-week after the last treatment is strongly recommended.

Cuts

Wash cuts clean with a mild antiseptic and dress with Betadine or paint with weak tincture Iodine. It there is damage to eye ceres - wash with clean water only (boiled and cooled), leave to dry, do not use any antiseptic that might cause irritation or eye damage.

Diarrhoea

This is a symptom rather than a disease and may indicate disease of enteric nature, arsenic, copper, lead poisoning from pesticides etc., change of diet, poor diet, hunger, stress from exertion, reaction to medication or additives, excess vitamins, medical additives to galvanised drinking vessel causing chemical reaction,algae build up in hose pipes used for filling drinkers etc.. It could also be due to a sudden drop in air temperature. If the faeces is devoid of odour it is only a metabolic imbalance -give more fibre/protein in diet, bicarbonate of soda (it helps minor complaints) in water or use Entrodex and Electrolytes to re-hydrate. For the general treatment of diarrhoea administer Furazolidone-half a tablet (5mg) both morning and evening for five days. You can also give Gramogyl syrup, 5 drops morning and evening.Should the faeces be foul smelling, unusually coloured or blood spattered then use this check list for the probability of other disease. The pigeon will always try to physic itself by flushing out the system, in some respects this is good

but, the danger lies in cross infection of other loft inmates when normally harmless carried bacteria can flare into a problem caused by increased activity. Always isolate suspected sick birds immediately to prevent further spread of the disease.

Dropsy

This is more usually a problem with old pigeons that demonstrate a swollen abdomen filled with watery tissue.Ascites is another name- the accumulation of lymph or tissue fluid in the tissue between cells. The bird gasps for breath with constant panting and signs of exhaustion. There are several causes - obesity at laying, lack of exercise; over-breeding, weak heart, worms (severe), coccidiosis, digestive problems, injury and internal tumour. Birds rarely recover from this condition and there is no treatment for the same.

Egg Bound

This is more common than dropsy and can affect hen pigeons of all ages. The pigeon is unable to pass the egg due to obesity or poor condition. In some cases the egg is being miscarried or aborted while at the soft shell stage. This happens when the female has started egg production but, contact with the mate has ceased (male or female) and has neglected to consume sufficient food or grit. In both cases the egg will require surgical removal or nursing assistance taking care not to break a shelled egg internally. This may be done by using your vaccination syringe (without needle) to insert warm olive oil (body temperature) into the vent and leaving nature to take its course after applying a very gentle massage. The process could need repeating 2-3 times. Most hens recover from the experience.

Enteritis

The symptoms are inflammation of the mucous membrane of the intestine, watery droppings, weakness or listlessness, poor appetite, excessive thirst. It is caused by bad digestion, severe worm infection, and rodent contamination of feed. It may cause liver damage and problems in other vital organs dependent upon the causative organism. Simple cases may be nursed and convalesced in the same manner as diarrhoea. The treatment is symptomatic i.e. the treatment should be carried out on the basis of symptoms. Liver problems are controlled by administering Liv 52 (vet) 5 drops morning and 5 in the evening.

Feather Rot

There are two causes - fungus/feather and boring mite. Both cases thrive in damp patches i.e. residual damp from faeces on perches / nests/ floor corners. It is usually found to affect birds of coarse webbed feather type. The fungus, microbe or mite lives within the soft pulp of the feather shaft, gradually breaking to the stubble until bald patches appear. Affected pigeons may be bathed in Camphor water. Pigeons will moult clean but the problem may reoccur at the next humid season. The modern veterinary treatment is injectable Ivermectin, which also acts as a complete de-louser and wormer. Ivermectin has proved safe for pigeons and has also shown a capability to improve feather quality at subsequent moulting. IVOMEC can be applied via a single drop upon the skin, under the feathering at the very rear of the birds head - this has proven to be remarkably effective for keeping the birds louse or mite free for the season.

Fungus

Fungus disorders in pigeons are not always readily recognized until their manifestation into a more serious illness. These take numerous forms and reduce resistance to secondary infections see - Aspergillosis, Chlamidospore, Feather Rot, Thrush (candida albicans) etc. Fungus disorders attack the respiratory system, nervous system, reproductive organs, and air sacs etc. reducing performance and yet the bird often displays apparent health. The causes are outlined under the various disease headings but a couple of extra causes may be outlined here: Aflatoxin poisoning

Aflatoxin is produced by a mould (Aspergillus flavus) which may develop in any badly harvested or stored grain or vegetable matter (straw, hay etc.) The mould thrives upon changeable humidity when the grain (or growing plant) is exposed to warmth after damp conditions. Unfortunately Aflatoxin develops unseen within the centre of the grain; outwardly the feedstuff has the appearance of being sound. Seasonal weather, incorrect storage plus several other factors, one of which could be condensation within the silo or the corn bin may promote the fungal growth. At its least severe condition Aflatoxin poisoning can result in brain damage, lung, heart, liver, spleen, and kidney damage, at its worst sudden death. There are pigeons that will not fly, yet appearing apparently healthy. The cause is almost certainly a fungus disorder affecting either the brain or the air sacs.

Aspergillus

Two of the main causes are mouldy maize or peanuts, which by definition are also two main ingredients of the pigeons diet. Maize should be checked regularly and peanuts purchased only if fit for human consumption and fed in small amounts only due to their limited storability.

Another cause of fungus disorder may lie due to bad loft management i.e. damp hay or straw. A further cause comes by the addition of Brewers Yeast to the feed whilst treating the bird with antibiotics, as the bird caretaker adds a mould to a mould and in many cases negates the medical treatment. Young pigeons in the nest are very susceptible to fungus disorders; there is a time to use Yeast and a time to withhold it. These are two of them. Fortunately most mild fungus disorders can be controlled by the addition of weak tincture aqueous iodine to the water and this may also have a tonic effect when not abused (1 teaspoon per Gallon). Sometimes fungus problems may be mistaken for P.M.V. in their symptoms.

Gapes

The symptoms of Gapes are gasping for breath, head shaking and coughing without any sign of apparent illness. The cause is • the small red Gape worm (Syngamus Trachaelis), which develops inside another host i.e. earthworm, maggot, snail etc., that thrives around soiled ground near poultry, ducks and geese. The parasitic worm once ingested feeds within the lung upon blood for ten days. It then makes its way after rapid growth to the windpipe. The adult male attaches itself to the female forming a letter •Y•, causing the bird to gasp or •Gape• when it is eventually coughed up onto the ground or water. There may be a homeopathic cure: Drosera and Dulcamara given on alternate days. Also Ignatia,Lacesis and China.

Going Light

This again is a symptom rather than an illness and may be related to a number of causes. The bird suffers rapid weight loss, listlessness and emaciation. This may possibly be due to coccidiosis, ornithosis, psittacosis, a fungus related disorder, canker etc. There is also another form of going light which is very common. This is when an apparently healthy bird with full body appears extremely light (not fit) and seems to lack vitality, will not fly and when made to do so appears to be •all in•. Often these birds will rarely leave the loft floor or struggle to reach

their perch; somehow they just seem lifeless in the hand. It could be suffering from over exertion and all will and physical power is destroyed and somehow the bird never recovers its former character. Monitor all offspring for signs of vigour loss! Give a multi vitamin solution like Vimril or Alviton-5 drops in the morning and 5 in the evening for a week.

Haemophillus

Birds infected with the Haemophillus bacteria suffer from a severe conjunctivitis, which affects both eyes. In this condition the eyelids are markedly swollen and there is purulent discharge. Affected birds often show respiratory distress signs due to infection of the upper respiratory tract.

The disease spreads by direct contact and droplet infection from one bird to another.Diagnosis is based on the clinical signs and laboratory culture from the eyes or nasal discharge.As this is a bacterial infection a suitable antibiotic such as a Tetracycline can be prescribed by a veterinary surgeon once the disease has been confirmed Indigestion

A symptom is that the pigeon fails to digest its full feed overnight. This may be due to probably gorging after being hungry. If it has affected more than one bird the grain was probably kiln dried and too hard to soak and digest. Too much barley; irregular feeding; too heavy feeding , lack of grit in gizzard are other reasons. Convalesce by feeding sparingly then gradual build up in quantity; replenish fresh clean grits and minerals; bicarbonate of soda in drinker. Give the bird a liver tonic like Liv 52 (vet), antibiotics-oxytetracycline or Enrox. If the bird has a grain or any other feed stuck in its throat, help induce regurgitation (vomiting). Pour warm water (not hot) into the bird•s beak with a dropper and then press the crop lightly. The other possibility is hernia of the gizzard which has no cure.

Lameness

This may be caused by injury, Staphylococcus arthritis, Aspergillosis, Tuberculosis, Salmonella Typhymurium. Give the bird an analgesic suspension like Ibugesic for 1 •2 days and massage the leg with turpentine liniment, which would give warmth to the affected leg. Consult a vet if not obviously injured. If diseased - cure with injectable antibiotics like Enrox 0.1ml I/M or Gentamicin 0.5ml I/M.

Liver Problems

Symptoms include consistent yellow fluid droppings, lassitude, thirst. The condition may be attributed to genetic fault, overuse of vitamins A & D, lack of sunshine, damp, lack of exercise, too long imprisonment, damage from previous disease, excessive use of stimulants or incorrect use of antibiotics (overdose). Plenty of sunshine

and exercise should be given to the ailing pigeon. Do not give multivitamins! Administer the bird Liv 52 (vet) 5 drops in the morning and 5 in the evening.

Mycoplasmosis

Mycoplasmosis is caused by tiny microscopic organisms transmitted from pigeon to pigeon through droppings in water and food. One to two weeks after the initial infection, you may note a watery nasal discharge, which later develops into a slimy pus-containing discharge. A grayish deposit appears in the beak and the saliva is tough and hangs wire-like between tongue and palate. There is swelling in the infected beak and throat cavity; an unhealthy smell is apparent. The nostrils become grey. If you press the nostrils, a thick discharge emerges. As the air passages become congested, breathing becomes laboured; the patient sits with open beak and makes wheezing noises, especially in the evenings and at night. The air sacs can also be infected.

In mycoplasmosis there is usually not an infection of the eyelid. Fatalities rarely occur, although the disease usually has a long duration. The disease appears to lower the bird•s resistant to other disease and chronic infection can markedly affect performance due to respiratory problems. Internally the air sacs can be seen to be affected and secondary bacterial infections can occur at this site

Treatment

Serious cases require antibiotic treatment. Enrox-2 tsp in 1 lt of water or 0.1ml injection I/M or Sulpha drugs-1/ 2 tablet in 1 lt water for 3-4 days. All healthy pigeons of the same loft should be treated with Althrocyn or similar medicine. Althrocyn, which is usually available in the powdered form, should be given 4 gm in 1 lt water for 5-7 days. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the whole coot, preferably on a weekly schedule.

Suitable antibiotic medication with Enrofloxacin, Tetracyclines, Tylosin or Tylamulin is effective against uncomplicated cases of Mycoplasmosis.

Mycoplasma infection is endemic in the pigeon population and the majority of pigeons will be affected by the organism. Stress conditions favour the development of the clinical disease in birds. The principle clinical finding is one of catarrh and initially there is a clear nasal discharge which in time becomes thicker due to the presence of pus.

Paramyxovirus

This is also known as P.M.V. (the poultry equivalent of which is Newcastle Disease). Affected birds will at first have an increased thirst and will pass liquid faeces - this may be followed by nervous signs. The nervous signs seen include paralysis, torsion of the neck and uncoordinated body movements • not all these signs will necessarily occur in every affected bird as there are many strains and various degrees of virulence of the disease. Symptoms are many and varied, sometimes several together, at other times singular. These include watery faeces, slimy green/brown faeces, nervousness, lack of co-ordination, falling backwards, misjudging distance, fear of sudden noise, reaction to bright light, torsion of neck, complete twisting movement of neck, inability to pick up grain immediately etc.

Diagnosis is based largely on the clinical signs and it can be confirmed by blood tests. The disease needs to be differentiated from Salmonellosis, other causes of wet droppings and other causes of nervous signs including poisoning. There is no cure but recovery is possible after nursing and convalescence for 10-14 weeks. The mortality/fatality rate is dependant upon the viral strain contracted. Some strains may kill within days but are extremely rare. Most strains result in recovery and future immunity for the individual although some may demonstrate continued nervousness for up to two years. The disease has an incubation period of 8-12 weeks after which the symptoms begin to appear. During this period the pigeons are infective to others. The symptoms are actually the onset of recovery, which takes another 8-14 weeks, plus further convalescence. Immunity is passed from an immune parent to nestlings, however this immunity only lasts for 3 weeks. Youngsters should be vaccinated at 21-28 days old. Prevention is via vaccination for both young and old but, 14 days must be allowed for vaccination to become affective; immunity is not immediate and also builds and wanes over a period of ten months for full effectiveness (not 12 months as many imagine).

Not all pigeons contract Paramyxovirus, some are resistant, possibly due to having contracted a mild but unnoticed strain at some previous time. However this is not an argument for not vaccinating the bird. The disease may be spread as airborne or contact borne.Vaccination is ineffective against the disease once the pigeon is in the stage of incubation of the virus. Birds who have recovered do not remain as carriers of the present pigeon related strain of P.M.V. However viruses do mutate so all information available may be subject to revision in future. As this condition is due to a virus no specific treatment is available. Antibiotics and multi vitamins may be used if the birds are under stress. Prevention of this disease is very important. There are vaccines but they may not be available in India.The best time to vaccinate young birds is during the last two weeks of March and the first week of April. The young birds should be at least 3 weeks old .The best time to vaccinate older birds is during November and December before the start of the laying season. Vaccines are given subcutaneously in the midline of the neck with the needle towards the tail of the bird. Great care must be taken to keep the needles, bottles etc as clean as possible.

Pox

Pox infections are caused by a virus that attacks the skin and mucous membrane cells, infecting the bare skin around the eyes, on the beak, on the feet and internally within the mouth and throat area. On occasions infection of a wound on a feathered area of the body can occur. The lesions are typically scabby in appearance with pus often being present due to secondary bacterial infection. The internal form can be so severe that feeding and breathing are affected to the point that death occurs. Lesions typically occur 4 to 14 days after initial infection and may be present for several weeks. Diagnosis is based on the clinical signs • the internal form affecting the mouth and throat may need a laboratory diagnosis to confirm this condition. The disease needs to be differentiated from canker with which the mouth form could easily be confused, and from Candida infection caused by a fungal infection of the mouth. In external pox, an infected pigeon will have crusty lesions on its unfeathered parts, especially around the eyes, around the beak, on the feet, and around the anus. The mucous membrane form (the internal form: diphtheria) is recognized by a cheese like, evil smelling deposit in the beak and throat cavities. It is possible for an individual pigeon to have both forms of the disease. However, the chances of survival are rare if the pigeon has an internal pox.

The poxvirus is transmitted via saliva droplets from the nose and mouth, seldom via droppings. The infection is then picked up with food or water or by a mosquito bite. The virus may be also present in dust that, when inhaled, infects the bird.

The first visible signs that a bird is infected occurs after 4-14 days. In one example, the virus can enter the bloodstream through a wound. The virus multiplies quickly and infects the liver and bone marrow, from whence it reinfects the blood. Via the blood, the pox organisms then migrate to the skin and mucous membranes, forming lesions that are a good feeding ground for many bacteria, such as staphylococci and streptococci. Thus pus soon forms.

Treatment

The patient should be treated with antibiotics such as chlortetracycline in order to combat possible secondary bacterial infection. Add boric acid to lukewarm water and gently rub it on the affected eye(s) using cotton. In addition, a vitamin preparation should be administered (especially vitamin A to promote skin healing).

- In serious outbreak of pox the deposit on the skin and mucous membrane must be removed daily.

- Treat healthy pigeons with chlortetracycline for 4- 7 days. Also give 7.5 gm chlortetracycline per gallon of drinking water.

- Disinfect the cote at least twice, with a week between treatments.

- Continue chlortetracycline treatment for four weeks.

As with paramyxo this condition is due to a virus and no specific treatment is available. Antibiotics may be used under veterinary direction to combat secondary infections and multi vitamins may be of benefit in some birds during the recovery phase.As no specific treatment is available the prevention of the disease is very important. There is only one vaccine licensed for use in the U.K., this is the Intervet product Pigeon Pox Vaccine (Living) Nobilis. All birds over six weeks old should be vaccinated. Annual re-vaccination should be done. The vaccine is administered by removing six to eight feathers from the thigh, the skin is stretched to open the feather follicles and the vaccine applied with the brush provided to the de-feathered area. Do not apply the vaccine to bleeding follicles and do not use a disinfectant to clean the skin before vaccination.

If Pox and Paramyxo vaccine are to be used together in a loft then both vaccines should be given on the same day. If this is not possible then a minimum gap of two weeks and preferably six weeks should be allowed between vaccinations.

The pox virus is very resistant and will remain infective for many months. It can be transmitted by biting flies and other insects. As a result good loft hygiene is important in the control of the disease.

Homeopathic remedies are:

Lesions on head & comb are wart like in nature -- Antim tart

Lesions in mouth are dipthertic type -- Kali mur, Nat sulph

Lesions with fever -- Antim tart, Aconite

Lesions without fever -- Bryonia, Calc phos

Head remedy -- Variolinum30, or 200

A combination of Pulsatilla200+ Thuja200 + Nat Sulp200, 5ml each is mixed in 8 liters of water for 100 birds.

Ornithosis

The disease is caused by Chlamydomonas, a group of organisms with characteristics of both viruses and bacteria. The disease is not fatal to fully grown pigeons. Ornithosis is due to a micro-organism called Clamydia. It is susceptible to antibiotics like bacteria but lives within and destroys body cells like a virus. Clinical signs vary from poor performance to an acute disease causing a marked conjunctivitis, decreased appetite, respiratory disease, diarrhoea and death.

Isolated patients will quickly respond if placed in a warm, draft free cage and will in a few days or weeks be their old selves again. O-c (• ornithosis-complex•) under normal circumstances does not present a great danger. But should the birds suffer from stress (molting, bad food, cold and damp in the lofts, drafts, etc) they become more susceptible to a heavy o-c infection. If an additional disease should infect a bird, then the danger is also greater. A bird suffering from o-c is less inclined to fly, a symptom that also occurs in many diseases. After a time, the bird will develop respiratory problems, will quickly tire, and sit with open beak gasping for breath, hunched up in appearance, raised feathers on rump, damp matted patches upon wing butts (eye wiping or scratching) constant sneezing. Thereafter, the normally white or light rose coloured eyelid membranes will well and become gray or brown. The eyes water profusely, and an inflamed, wet patch soon forms under the eyes. In serious cases the eyelids will stick together, and secondary bacterial infections can cause blindness. The nostrils become gray and are also wet from a running nose. The bird will sneeze and scratch at its face. Should the mucous membranes of the nose, throat, and trachea become infected, the bird will sit with open beak, gasping for breath. As the trachea fills with mucous, you may hear a rattling sound as the bird gasps. The intestines may become infected, resulting in diarrhoea.

O-c is very infectious. It can be transmitted via infected drinking water and also through the air. The cote must be well-ventilated, clean and light, and disinfected at least once a week. Damp, stagnant air will spread the disease more quickly. Disinfect loft and all utensils, blow torch disinfect again and limewash. It is extremely difficult to eradicate and may reoccur. Completely isolate all others into a fresh air aviary quarantine. It is essentially a disease due to filth or lack of observation.

Treatment

You should do two things:

1. Allow the bird to be injected by a vet:0. 5 ml oxytetracycline in the breast muscle; repeat after 24 hours and

2. Administer chlortetracycline powder in the drinking water or Hostacycline powder 4 gms in 1 lt water for 5 to 7 days or more. Multivitamins must be given for 30-60 days.

Diagnosis of this disease in the live bird is difficult and must rely heavily on the clinical symptoms present. Blood tests will identify birds that have been exposed to the organism but are not a good indication of the present disease status. Where dead birds are available, samples from the liver or spleen can give a positive diagnosis in the laboratory. The disease needs to be distinguished from Mycoplasma infection, Haemophylus infection and •One Eyed Cold•.

Paratyphoid (Salmonellosis)

Salmonella bacteria, mainly found in the intestines causes problems with the bone joints, diarrhoea and nervous problems. In general, the disease is not fatal, as long as medicines are given on time.

The bacteria are passed in the droppings of infected birds, or via the crop milk, the saliva, or infected eggs. It is well known that certain unaffected pigeons can be carriers. Birds are infected by ingesting food or water contaminated by the droppings of infected birds.

Pigeons infected with salmonella bacteria get serious intestinal problems in four to five days. Fatalities occur quickly in young birds, because they have no immunity. Older birds, however, incubate the disease over a long period, and if they are not adequately cured, they will become carriers capable of infecting other birds via their oviducts and their droppings.

Squeakers may suddenly lose weight at 4-6 weeks and show signs of staring eyes, twisted necks, losing balance, gasping, difficulty in eating or digesting, mainly water filled crop, will not fly up to perches. Old birds demonstrate dropped wing, wing swelling, lameness, swollen foot (usually left foot), hens become barren, eggs fail to hatch. Affected birds have enteritis which may be blood stained. They are depressed, become dehydrated rapidly and emaciated. Death quickly follows if they are not treated. It is possible for Salmonellae to enter the blood stream and a generalised infection will result. In addition to the two forms of Salmonella recorded above cases are seen where the organism localises in one or more joints. Affected joints are swollen and painful and movement of the joint is lost due to the pain involved. If the organism is localised in the brain nervous signs will be seen depending upon the area of brain involved.

Infected pigeons may show only one, some or all of the symptoms. Carriers rarely show any symptoms at all. The complexity of correct diagnosis makes this the most common but often wrongly diagnosed illness. The many and varied symptoms cause confusion for treatment but, are actually good signs for diagnosis when several birds appear to be ailing in different ways. The greatest problem is in identifying the carrier which may appear fully fit (start with the oldest first and work backwards). The main cause is rodent contaminated feed, cross infection from wild birds or contact with a carrier from elsewhere. It is often confused with P.M.V. due to the symptoms. Treatment

Serious cases must be injected by a veterinarian with 0.5ml oxytetracycline, repeated after 24 and 48 hours. In addition oral administration of chlorytetracycline must be given via the drinking water twice daily for five days. After the first five days no medications should be given for two days, or an individual treatment of one Furazolidone tablet per day should be administered. The cote must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. The bird should receive no grit during the course of treatment.

The disease is particularly severe in young birds and can be introduced into a loft by an apparently healthy carrier bird that can excrete the organism in faeces or saliva but which shows no clinical signs of disease itself. Young birds can be affected from crop milk or affected faeces. Salmonellae most commonly affects the intestinal tract. Laboratory testing is required to confirm a diagnosis of Salmonellosis. The disease needs to be differentiated from other causes of diarrhoea (viruses, other bacteria, parasites etc), injury to the joint and other causes of nervous signs including Paramyxo-virus and poisoning.

Where dead birds are available for post mortem, examination of cultures from the birds should determine whether or not the organism is present. In live birds faecal and mouth swabs may detect the organism.

Pneumonia

This is a secondary infection usually accompanying Ornithosis, Psittacosis, cold etc. It is caused or spread via dust infected dried droppings (faeces) or spread via contact and feed trays or drinkers. There are two types - (1) Virus (2) Pneumonacocccus. There is no cure; however, secondary infections can be treated. Add Enrox oral 2tsp in 1lt drinking water.

Prolapse

The medication is a displaced oviduct or rectum protruding from the vent after egg laying. It is usually caused by obesity, over breeding or old age. The protruding organ may be gently replaced with gentle coercion but is liable to infection if not immediately noticed. Clean the organ that is protruding with warm water and gently press the organ inside. Do not leave the bird immediately after pressing the organ inside, instead hold for sometime in the same position to reduce straining.

Protein poisoning

This may be a common complaint and young birds definitely benefit from a lighter diet during the warmer months. Psittacosis (parrot fever)

This is a virus disease similar to Paratyphoid and usually affects young birds. Although this is a disease affecting psittacines (parrots, budgerigars etc.), it can be found in pigeons as well. Symptoms include pasty and sticky mucous in throat lining and mouth, diarrhoea, green and white faeces (smelly), soiled mated vent, swollen abdomen, vomiting, poor appetite, listlessness, panting, rump may be seen to constantly rise and fall, dull partially closed eyes, sneezing, weaned birds tend to stay upon the loft floor. Birds usually die in their nest and death is fairly rapid for older infected birds. It is caused by a virus passed via sneezing and faeces, food contamination etc. Incubation is 2-10 days and onset is very sudden with a high fatality rate. It is usually accompanied by various secondary infections i.e. canker, pneumonia, peritonitis (liver & kidney infection), enteritis, roup. The effects include pus forming in air sacs and lungs, damage to heart, liver, kidneys and spleen. Birds that contract a mild form survive to become carriers. Action should be taken be destroy and burn all infected birds and routinely disinfect all lofts fixtures and fittings. Psittacosis is essentially a filth disease caused by damp and wet droppings. If you smell ammonia or foul odour, with houseflies in abundance then suspect the onset of this disease. Pigeons will very often eat maggots that may be contaminated. Keep your loft clean.

Rickets (See bone troubles.)

It is caused by a lack of calcium or damp conditions, inattentive parents, impoverished diet and followed by arthritis or rheumatic condition with permanent weakening of muscular efficiency. Give the bird Ascal or Ostacalcium or any other calcium supplement.

Roup

This is a highly contagious form of avian Diphtheria. Symptoms include cold, running nostril mucous, inflamed eyes, catarrh, dry cheesy matter in throat and nostrils, sometimes pox like lesions, blue-grey membrane in throat, on tongue and grey coloured wattles. Swab the throat, nose or any other part having the •cheesy• material with glycerine. Isolate patients, increase ventilation, fumigate loft and convalesce all birds in open-air environment as much as possible. The condition is mainly caused by overcrowding and bad ventilation or cross infection from wild birds.

Scaly leg (Mange)

Caused by the mite Sarcoptens Gallinae Mutans. For treatment wash legs in paraffin and paint with iodine and Vaseline.

Thrush

This is a fungal disorder (Candida Albicans) resulting normally in loss of equilibrium but increased by stress. Causes include mouldy feed, spores from droppings or litter which can be airborne or waterborne. May attack the throat, respiratory tracts, reproductive organs and vent. More common in nestlings. Symptoms are grey coated throat, blue-coated tongue (do not confuse with blue tipped tongue which is inherited pigmentation not a disease symptom), rattling and general debilitation or poor growth. Old pigeons show lack of vigour, reluctance to mate or rear young, may refuse to feed infected young and change nest location where possible.

Cure for old pigeons -swab throat with mixture of aqueous iodine, glycerine and honey. Use water purifier in drinkers, blow torch dry any damp nesting area and disinfect. Check all feed for sourness. There is no worth while cure for nestlings. Worse case scenario - thrush can escalate via secondary complications into Aspergillosis or Psittacosis. Identify immediately and effect prompt action. The disease is not serious if caught immediately. Vitamin deficiency

This is usually a result of stress from moulting and insufficient vitamins are assimilated into the body from feed to maintain balance. Give the bird Vimral - a multivitamin solution-5 drops in the morning and 5 in the evening for a week. This deficiency can be cured with one Halibut oil capsule daily for 5 days and no recurring disorder in most cases.

Ectoparasites

This caused by parasites that live on the outside of the host•s body. Anaemia, feather damage, respiratory problems (air sac mites) and poor growth in young birds may all result from external parasite infestation. Where cases of anaemia or reduced performance and agitation are obvious in birds, external parasites should be suspected and regular visual inspection of the birds should be undertaken to identify the presence of tics and lice. The lice and mites that infest pigeons are the feather louse, the small louse, the quill or feather mite, the itch, body mange, or depluming mite and the red mite.

Long louse (feather louse): found on the flight feathers and guard feathers of the whole body. Long lice do not cause many problems since they feed on feather scurf and do not damage the feathers as was previously thought. Sick birds that are not able to control the lice are susceptible to heavy infestations. Young birds may have particular problems with this louse. The lice can easily be seen by spreading the wings. In heavy infestations the lice may be seen on the neck, head and back.

Small louse: it is small and round. It also feeds on feather scurf but does more damage than the long louse, causing much irritation (prickling, burning). The small louse must be controlled. It is found on the underside of the guard feathers on the throat. Free flight helps to keep these lice under control, since they are shy of the light. Feather or quill mite: it is the most important of the mites. It sits on the feather shaft of the flight feathers, especially the wider ones. It does not destroy feathers but causes much irritation. Feather mites can be best seen if the wing is held up to the light; they appear as small black specs on the sides of the shafts.

Itch mite: these mites cause feathers to fall out and are very dangerous. They burrow through the feather shaft into the follicle. If fallen feathers have a swollen root, itch mites may be the probable cause. The feather shafts swells and the feather is shed. Small pale spots appear on the undersides of feathers on the breast, wings, back and neck.

Red mite: it will not be found by examining the pigeon. During the day the mites hide in nooks and crannies in the cote and come out at night to suck blood. The mite causes irritation and damage through bloodsucking (hence the red colour). Pigeon and bird ticks and red bird mites can be detected with the naked eye in cracks in the loft - ideally in the early hours of the morning, when the parasites leave the birds in search of a hiding place. They are also found under feeding troughs and nest bowls.

Mange mites and scaly leg mites can be identified by a scraping from the skin

Control of ectoparasites

Clean feed and water vessels with hot water. Regular bathing in clean water - at least once a week - protects pigeons against parasite infestation. Administer Ivermectin injection or orally to the birds regularly and bathe the bird (below the neck) once in a month with Botox, Pestoban added to the water.

Development and life cycle of the most important ectoparasites in pigeons:

The period of development and lifespan of the parasites is temperature-dependent. The times specified will therefor evary accordingly.

Endoparasites

There are parasites that live inside the body. The most important parasites in pigeons are the round worm, the threadworm and the fluke.

Roundworms:

the fully-grown roundworm lives in the small intestine and is approximately 2 inches in length. The female worm can lay hundreds of thousand of tiny eggs, which are visible only under a microscope.

The eggs are excreted in the pigeon•s droppings. Outside, the eggs require 14 days to become infectious; they must first ripen. Any eggs taken up by another bird in this 14-day period will not develop. However, if the pigeon takes up eggs that are ripe, larvae will hatch from the eggs in the intestines. The larvae burrow into the walls of the intestine, where they stay for sometime.

The amount of damage caused by these worms depends on the degree of infestation. A single worm will not do much damage but a large number of worms blocking the alimentary canal can prove fatal. A pigeon should not have a single parasite in its body. The worms take a large proportion of nutrients from the pigeon and produce toxins that prevent normal digestion. The food does not stay in the intestine long enough to be digested, and this results in diarrhoea. In slight infestation, little or nothing will be apparent to the observer, but in serious infections, the pigeon will lose weight, have diarrhoea, molt badly, and quickly fatigue.

Should worms, about 2 inches in length, be seen in the droppings, you can be sure that the bird has a roundworm infestation, but in most cases the worm is not seen.

To prevent worm and other manifestations, strict hygiene in the pigeon cote is required. Floors, boxes, and perches should be kept very clean. The worm eggs are very resistant and difficult to eradicate. They require a damp medium at normal temperatures in which to ripen; in times of warm, damp weather, the worm eggs stand a much greater chance of ripening. They are less resistant to dryness. To destroy the eggs, the best method is to sanitize the floor with a blowtorch. To prevent infestation in the cote the pigeons should have their food served in clean containers.

Threadworms:

threadworms are as thin as a thread and hardly visible to the naked eye. The threadworm lives in the walls of the intestines and, in spite of its much smaller size, can do more damage than the roundworms.

The worm eggs require similar conditions to those of roundworms to ripen-that is a certain amount of time in a damp medium before they are picked up by a pigeon and can develop further.

The symptoms of threadworms infestation are similar to that of roundworms and so are the preventive and hygiene measures to be taken.

Intestinal flukes:

they occur only in grassy areas. The pigeon can become infested only if it eats infested snails that live in such areas. The parasite is flat and almost as wide as it is long. It lives on the walls of the intestines and holds on tightly by biting, causing much damage. Blood vessels are destroyed and haemorrhage occurs. This can be so serious that a pigeon can die from blood loss in a few hours.

To prevent further infestations, do what you can to keep the birds from areas where the infested snails are. This is a difficult task. Take care that the young bird does not fly out with the adults.

Control of endoparasites

Fortunately there are medicines for worms. Dewormers include Albamor or Minthal- 5 drops in the morning on empty stomach for one day.

A regular fecal examination for the presence of parasites is useful to check for worms.

Fractures

A pigeon limping or a leg which may be twisted out of shape should be taken to a wildlife centre or vet who can X-ray and set it. If this is impossible one can use the diagram below as a guide. Fractures in the upper part of the leg are best attended to by an expert.

Extend the leg and wrap it in wadding to protect the skin from pressure. Cut a straw to a length that is shorter than the wadding so that the sharp ends do not cut the skin. Slit the straw lengthwise, fit it over the wadding then cover with adhesive bandage. Leave in place for 2-3 weeks, longer if necessary.

Bird•s bones are hollow and very frail. Fractures near joints do not mend well, and compound or multiple fractures need experienced attention. The diagram below shows how a clean break to a wing can be treated.

Fold the fractured wing into its natural position. A figure of 8 bandage holds a broken wing in place then another bandage is wrapped over the damaged wing, around the body then under the sound wing. Leave for about a month.

Also, many pigeons lose toes or legs because of discarded tackle or threads, and can be injured by fishing hooks. Please pick up such dangerous debris and dispose of them safely. Bird feet can be disentangled using nail scissors and antiseptic spray from any chemist can be applied to the area afterwards.

Injuries/Shock

An injured pigeon may be suffering from shock. This means that blood vessels become inflamed and restrict the blood supply, particularly to the toes. These feel cold. To counteract this, keep the bird warm i.e. in a box with a wrapped hot water bottle. The condition should not last longer than 3 hours. Give the bird 5 drops of Stressvit morning and evening to come out of the shock quickly.Bach•s Rescue Remedy is helpful. Use the same technique if you know the bird is concussed ie. it flew into a patio door or car. Keep the box away from noise.

Kite Injuries

Many pigeons become a victim to kite strings. About 80-85% of pigeons get cuts on the wings and the remaining 20-15% on neck or legs.

Wing treatment: the bleeding part should be immediately placed under running cold water or keep ice cubes on the particular part of the wing. Press it with a handkerchief or any other soft clean cloth. Apply Betadine or any antiseptic liquid/cream and then bandage it. Follow the same procedure for an injured neck or leg though caution must be taken that the water does not enter inside the mouth.

Dehydration

In summers birds get dehydrated and often fall on the ground due to lack of stamina. Add a little glucose or pinch of sugar to the drinking water or any other electrolyte solution to rehydrate the bird.

Exhaustion/Starvation

Exhaustion generally applies to birds that have exercised beyond their endurance. If one comes down in your garden etc. it will appreciate some food. A pinch of sugar or glucose in water would also be of benefit. If the breastbone can be seen or easily felt, there is muscle wastage and the bird is suffering from malnutrition and needs help. In most cases the fatigued pigeon recovers in a day or two and will leave on its own.

Injuries/Shot

A puncture wound is generally painful and may bleed. Only a vet can tell if the pellet is still present and remove it to prevent infection. Part the feathers and clean the area with iodine. If the wound is bleeding, apply pressure for a full minute with a finger swab or cotton bud. This is vital since all birds have a small blood volume and movement accelerates blood loss. Keep the patient still. Heavy panting or laboured gasping may mean imminent death. Injuries/Cat Attacks

Pigeons are commonly caught by cats. Typical injuries are scratches or holes under the wings or on the back with considerable feather loss. In all cases, even if it seems recovered, antibiotics from a vet are necessary since cat•s teeth carry bacteria. Clean the wounds with saline solution or antiseptic spray like Betadine or Gentamicin or Himax. Half an aspirin can be given if the pigeon seems in pain or inject Diclovet I/M .32 ml. Warmth and quiet are essential. Give the bird multivitamin solution like Vimral and Stressvit.

Medicines that You should Have in the medicine Chest

Baytril : for serious intestinal or systemic infections. This comes in tablet form and individual pigeons can be dosed at 5 mg per day for 5-10 days

Amoxicillin : safer alternative to Baytril. Can also be used for serious infections. Comes in tablet form of 50 mg which can be used once or twice a day

Tetracycline : (Terramycin, Aeuromycin or Doxycycline): good for respiratory infections

Tylan : Used with Tetracycline for respiratory infections. 50 mg per pigeon per day

Amprolium : Used for coccidiosis. 1 tsp per gallon for 3-5 days

Dimetridazole : for Trichmoniasis. Should be used in very low doses 1/4-3/8 tsp per gallon, for 3-5 days. Higher doses can causes seizures

Flagy (Metronidazole) : for Trichmoniasis. 25-5 mg per pigeon per day for 1-3 days

Ivomec (Ivermectin) : wormer 500-1000 micrograms (ug) per pigeon) Not effective against roundworms

Pyrantel pamoate : 1-3 mg per pigeon for 1-2 days. For orund worm only

Fenbendazole : effective against 3 major but can cause feather damage. 5 mg per pigeon for 3 days

REARING A BABY PIGEON:

Whatever the reason you may be called upon to take up the task of hand-rearing a baby bird, you must remember that it is very time consuming, especially with chicks that are very young.

The following rules will help you to be successful.

1. The need for heat and humidity of the brooder.

2. The need for the correct recipe, consistency and temperature of the diet.

3. The need for the correct feeding technique, frequency and hygiene.

4. The need to monitor the babies progress and to be able to detect signs of problems.

The Need for Heat

A new born chick requires a temperature between 33-37 degrees C. As the chick grows and produces feathers its need for heat diminishes.

The best brooder can easily be made from a glass or plastic fish tank or a laminated wooden box. Untreated wood or cardboard is ill advised as it harbours germs and prevents adequate cleaning. The heat source can be a heat pad or even a 15 watt light globe housed inside a tin can that is about 12cm across. It should not get hot enough to burn the chick. A hot water bottle changed frequently is another alternative heat source. Whatever method is used to warm the brooder the heat can be kept in by a simple lid of a sheet of polystyrene with air holes punched in.

It is important to closely monitor your charges. Chicks which are too cold become lifeless and are cold to touch. Chicks that are too hot at first will show a red wrinkled skin then become restless, pant, gasp and hurl themselves around the brooder in a frenzy. Overheating is often fatal.

• The floor of the brooder should be lined with fine wood shavings with a layer of paper towelling on top. The purpose of the towelling is to monitor the bowel movements of the young bird.

• Humidify the air via an open dish of water covered with wire to prevent an accidental drowning. Humid air will prevent dehydration of the baby bird.

• Keep the baby warm (at least 80 degrees F). If the squab is completely without feathers (only has yellow down), a ventilated box containing a red light bulb is needed, (hot water bottles do not last through the night.) If the baby is fledged, then a cardboard box lined with kitchen paper is adequate

• Keep the baby dry!

• Keep the baby in a quiet, safe place - away from noise, curious humans, cats, dogs, etc.

How much, how often•

The consistency of the food will depend greatly upon the age of the bird. A youngster that is only a day or two old will be able to handle extremely thin watery food every 2 hours, if the crop has completely emptied.Newborn chicks have only small crops and will not hold much food at all. Do not force the chick to take more than it can handle. Remember they are very weak at this tender age and will eat very slowly and tire quickly.

If you want to rear the bird yourself it is best to feed it 3-4 times a day. Acceptable foods include Complan fed through a syringe, wholemeal bread soaked in warm water or milk or a mash of warm porridge or digestive biscuit with a little scrambled or boiled free-range egg (about a third of an egg at first, increasing to half an egg per day). Unlike garden birds who gape when hungry, it is necessary for the squab•s beak to be gently opened to receive tiny pellets of food that should be pushed into the back of the throat. Feed until the crop feels plump or the bird loses interest. Food can be moistened, but do not squirt water into the mouth as baby birds can choke or actually drown this way.

You must get food and water into the baby: if she is too young to eat by herself, you will need to feed her by hand. Make a baby bird formula (whole meal bread soaked in warm water or milk or a mash of warm porridge), and buy a feeding syringe (no needles, just a feeding syringe).

Fill the syringe with formula; make sure it is not too thick or you will not be able to push it through. Carefully open the little squeaker•s beak. Insert the syringe carefully into her mouth and squeeze a little bit at a time. It will take you a good twenty to thirty minutes probably, and the squeaker needs feeding at least five times a day. Babies must be fed! The food should be made thicker to a melted ice cream consistency as the chick grows. Feeding intervals will be determined by the speed of the emptying of the crop. Only very young birds need feeding at night, and then only once at about 3 a.m. otherwise four times daily feeding until 5 weeks of age is adequate. The food should be given at 42 degrees F. This is the temperature that can be tolerated on the lip without burning. In between feeds boil the utensils etc. so as to prevent any food spoilage and subsequent infections. Syringes can also be used.

Feed your bird every day, even after she begins eating seed by herself. Spilled food around the face should be cleaned with a warmed clean cloth before it dries. A •bib• may help to keep the feathers clean as well as a fine warm water mist spray over the body when the weather is hot, but ensure that the pigeon does not get a chill. When she first starts showing an interest in picking up seed, she will need at least one more week of handfeeding to be sure she is getting enough nutrition. It takes a while for a baby to learn how to eat and drink, so be patient. Small seeds like millet can be added gradually until the youngster begins to feed itself. When the squab is old enough to begin to peck at seeds, provide a shallow dish of water and cage bird grit.

The first indications that the time for weaning is correct is the growing lack of interest in their food. When this behaviour begins a variety of soft foods can be placed in a shallow dish on the floor of the brooder or cage. Remove these foods after 6 hours and replace fresh each morning.Feed the birds only in the evening until they lose interest and then weaning should be completed.Weaning is encouraged by offering a variety of soft foods such as fresh corn, steamed peas, broccoli, pumpkin, carrots, apple, fruits, soaked lentils, beans, sunflower seed. Seed should be given in as small quantities as possible. Millet sprays are given on a daily basis to stimulate the weaning process. Clean seed mixes soaked for 24 to 48 hours helps your bird develop a taste for a variety of seed types.The newly weaned bird will try new foods more readily than at any other period in its life, so offer your bird a variety of foods during this time.Birds start flying at the same time as weaning . The birds should be provided with a low perch during the weaning process and offered water twice a day in a low dish.

Once it is well feathered (appearing last under the wings), keep the youngster outside in some sort of cage safe from cats during the daytime. This will help it get used to other birds: encourage it to pick up it•s own seeds and grains and get beneficial sunlight. Ideally it should spend some time in a rehabilitation aviary. But if this is not possible, do ensure that the bird can fly properly and eat by itself before release, allowing it to strengthen and try it•s wings in a bedroom or garage.

When you are satisfied that it is able to fend for itself, let it go in fine weather in a safe area, perhaps a town or city park, well away from cats, where it can join a regularly fed existing flock who have all year round access to water.

About 45 days after birth, a pigeon can fly. Please do not release her until you are sure she can fly well and defend herself. If you release her, bring her back to where you found her or to a safe area nearby, preferably where there are other pigeons.

If you rescued her at a very young age and feel that she should not be released into the wild, or if any other injury/condition exists so that she can be released, then you should provide her with a good home. That means she should have room to fly and always have dry, fresh food and clean water.

Three weeks to independence

At around three weeks, it is time to start the weaning process by leaving a few that small seeds for it to peck at and a container of water so do not it can drink.

Very young babies that do not get real pigeon milk usually grow much more slowly than babies that get the milk so do not get discouraged and be patient. Hand feeding babies from day one is a last resort because they do grow much more slowly than when fed by their own parents, and sometimes they just do not make it.

Babies need water, too. Keep a close watch on the babies when you first set them out to see that they get the water they need. Some signs to watch for are: blinking eyes or the crop (digestive tract of the bird where the food is stored before digestion) will feel hard. If the crop is hard, give them a little water with a syringe and tube, and massage the feed in the crop and it will soften up. Once you see them take a good drink on their own, they will not have any more problems. But make it easy on them. Always place the water in the same container and put the container in the same location in the cage. Just like people, pigeons need more water when it is hot, so watch them closely in hot weather.

All baby birds are frail. Any period of cold weakens their ability to thrive, and infant mortality in nature is always high.

Tube Feeding

Tube feeding is like force-feeding. It adds vital nutrients to the body when the pigeon may not actively take in these nutrients on its own. Tube feeding can be useful to aid in weaning of the young birds. This is the time when the squeakers are left on their own to learn how to eat and drink. Every year, there always seems to be at least one squeaker that does not •catch on• as quickly as the others. He may even get weaker and weaker as he falls further behind. This is a good time to tube feed. Youngsters in this situation can be fed a high calorie feeding solution containing fructose and glucose. In the pigeon, fructose has been documented to be a highly digestible sugar being quickly converted to usable energy. (The sugar fructose can be found in grape juice, honey, and in powdered preparations in health food stores.

Sick pigeons generally do not eat or drink as much as they should. This is a natural phenomenon in all animals, including man. Tube feeding can be beneficial in this situation. It will deliver vital nutrients that the bird would otherwise not take in on its own. Again, there are commercially made products for birds that contain all the necessary fats, proteins, and carbohydrates that a sick pigeon needs. Oral antibiotics can also be mixed right into the formula and placed directly into the crop.

Tube feeding procedure

The first thing needed is a feeding syringe. Feeding syringes are a little different than regular syringes in that they have a larger opening at the end. This allows the passage of thicker and larger materials, such as ground pellets or very thick feeding solutions. A •regular• syringe can be used if you are only going to feed water or water/electrolyte solutions. Glass syringes can break easily when dropped. Plastic syringes are best, as they are very durable and easily cleaned. There are two types of feeding tubes available: rigid stainless steel tubes; or flexible, rubber feeding tubes. The best are the rubber flexible, round tipped feeding tubes, as they are soft and flexible as they are passed into the crop. This is safer, because it will move with the pigeon if it struggles, preventing damage to the mouth, esophagus, or crop. The rounded tip provides easy passage of the tube into the crop. Rigid feeding tubes such as the stainless steel ones can cause damage, if handled improperly. Soft rubber tubes are much safer. The tube size should have an outside diameter of no more than 0.4 cm (4 mm). When holding the pigeon, care must be taken NOT to put any pressure over the crop area. (Pressure on the crop can cause regurgitation [vomiting] of the feeding solution.) Next, the pigeon•s neck is straightened out vertically while the beak is opened. With the mouth open, it is easy to see the opening into the trachea or windpipe. It is on the lower portion of the mouth just behind the tongue. It will contract open with every breath. The tube is then gently placed past this opening to the rear of the mouth on the bird's right side. If done correctly, the tube will pass very easily down the throat into the crop. Do not force it if you feel resistance.

The tube is passed approximately 3-3 1/2 inches in to the crop. Once in the crop you can actually feel the tip of the tube by feeling the skin on the outside of the crop. Now slowly inject the solution into the crop. Do not fill the crop completely because this can cause some overflow. The neck should be kept in full extension during the feeding to discourage any overflow or reflux. After injection of the solution the tube is slowly and carefully removed. If reflux occurs during the feeding process the pigeon should be released immediately to let it clear his throat on his own. Attempting to hold the bird upside down or trying to swab out its throat will only cause undue stress. This will only increase the chance of aspiration (the breathing in of some of the solution.) This can cause infection.

Some tips when tube feeding

pigeons Always lubricate the feeding tube before use. A small amount of a lubricant such as K-Y Jelly or Vaseline wiped on the tube will help its passage into the esophagus.

Feed liquids should be warmed slightly. Excessively hot or cold liquids can cause irritation and possible regurgitation.

Feeding formulas should be fresh.

The cleaning of the feeding tube and syringe is important. This is especially important when feeding a sick bird. The feeding can be from 70-100 kcal per day depending on the health status of the bird. You would want to feed a total of 100 kcal to a sick non-eating pigeon.

Note

During the time the pigeon you rescued is recovering, suggested containers to keep the pigeon are a wicker (thin flexible twigs) basket or large box with strips cut away to permit light. Newspaper bedding is the most suitable but needs regular changing! A spare room or garage allows one to assess if the pigeon can fly properly prior to release. Perfect weather conditions for this are sunny and windless days, preferably not in winter.

For food, feral pigeons rely on our generosity and wasteful ways. In the pigeon•s interest it is important not to throw food where notices prohibit it, such as railway stations, forecourts etc. Doing so will attract a large flock and consequently adverse attention from authorities who can and will take action to the pigeon•s detriment.

Safe sites are open spaces and parks. It is best not to feed bread near gutters as hungry birds will be tempted to follow stray crumbs into the path of traffic. If you can, feed mixed corn (from pet shops). It is nutritionally superior and is quickly consumed with less risk of crusts being left to encourage rats and still more unsympathetic notice.

Feeding is especially appreciated in the winter months, and water should be provided in gardens as all species drink freely and enjoy bathing.

Pigeon Housing

Pigeons do not need ostentatious abodes, after all they have been living quite happily for centuries in cliffs and on boring park statues. the cage or loft you build for your pigeons must fulfil a number of pigeon requirements.

Your pigeons will also spend a lot of time making and raising babies, so they will need nest boxes to do it in. Their loft will need lots of walking areas, where they can strut and seeing as how male pigeons are one of nature•s biggest show-offs, they will need more boxes than you might think. Once a male pigeon claims a nest box and settles his wife in, he will most likely head off to raid and steal the boxes of others. A good idea is to make the boxes in pairs, with a running board that extends right in front of both compartments and a barrier between each pair of boxes. This is like little bird-sized apartments! That way, if he heads off to steal another box, one of his rivals will quickly step in to steal HIS box and possibly his wife as well! Male pigeons catch on pretty fast though and it does not take long for peace to reign. This show-off trait